The four "C's" in diamond

Diamond grading is basically divided into four subjects or criteria. Carat, cut, clarity & colour. Each has its own significance as we shall see and they are stated in order of priority. The value of the stone is determined by the weight of the stone, its brilliance, which is determined by the cut, the quality of the stone so determined by its clarity: the fewer its inclusions the better and lastly its colour or the whiteness of the stone. However these days as fashion changes and the colour of the seasons gains priority diamonds are now available in a range of colours other than white though white seems to be the dominant colour even though other colours may be more fashionable in a particular season or month.

Carat

In 1913, the specification of a carat was, replaced by an exact measure of 200 milligrams or one fifth of a gram. Previously the weight of a carat was determined by the average weight of a carob seed. The larger the stone the greater its value: for example a two-carat stone will cost more than two, single carat stones. Similarly the cost of a 1.95, carat stone will much less than a two, carat stone. The smaller stones may even be a fraction of a carat, as small as 0.03 of a carat up to several carats and the larger the stone the greater its rarity. Jewellery set with multiple stones is usually specified in terms of the total carat weight and the number of pieces giving the average size of the stones.

Cut

The cut of the stone does not only represent the shape of the stone but the number of facets as well. The simple round stone has the brightest facets and the maximum fire and brilliance or the brightness of the light one sees in a diamond. The light as if emanating from a diamond is due to the very precise mathematical proportion of the facets and the proportion of the table, the crown, the girdle and the pavilion of the cut and facetted stone. This is what determines whether it is a brilliant cut or a super fine cut or whether it is ideal or standard. Though it was a subjective judgment in the past, the purists still argue that it is, today the grading is decided by pure mathematics thanks to computerization of the diamond grading process. Hearts and arrows visible in superbly cut diamonds still fetch a premium price oer other cuts.

The popular shapes of diamonds are the round, the pear, the heart, the oval, the marquise, the emerald and the princess. Baguettes are small and rectangular in shape and are very popular in art deco styled jewellery.

Clarity

Diamonds are mined and ore that comes out of the rock is referred to as rough. It is then cut and polished before it emanates the fire and brilliance, the sparkle or twinkle of the stone. Due to its natural-ness diamonds often have inclusions or tiny points usually white, dots or feathery cracks. The fewer inclusions found in the stone the greater value of the stone. It is therefore always better to have the diamonds appraised and certified by a third party. Flawless or Internally flawless diamonds are extremely rare and very, very expensive. VVS1 or 2 or very small inclusions are more common and valuable, classified as fine diamonds. The lesser grades are VS (very small inclusions), SI (small inclusions) and P the lowest grade being inclusions visible to the naked eye.

Clarity plays an important part in valuating the intrinsic value of the stone, and this grading is very important when choosing your stone.

Colour

The most precious colour of diamonds is pure white. But these days with the fickleness of fashion the trends keep changing and the fancy colours such as blue, yellow, pink, champagne, green, cognac are all popular colours. Lesser in value are the black and brown diamonds but with the trends in fashion changing in the author's opinion the best category for investment is pure white or as close as you may get. Some consider diamonds with a reddish hue to be unlucky. White diamonds are graded from D to Z or from colour-less to heavily tinted.

Indians prominent in the diamond trade | The sparkle of the night sky in daylight | Popularity of diamond jewellery | Diamond grading: Less of an art and more of a practice | Coloured stars | Diamonds set in gold